Tamaleros Fuel Our Days and Their Dreams

In Sunset Park, tamales and rice pudding have become an almost daily requirement for many of the locals. The vendors of these Mexican delicacies have made their recipes a fundamental part of the neighborhood's mornings. Who would have thought this Mesoamerican dish would become a staple New York breakfast?

The word tamal comes from the Nahuatl "tamalli," meaning 'wrapped.' Tamales, prized for their portability, were a staple food for Mesoamerican cultures between 8000 and 5000 B.C., used in festivals, offerings, hunting trips, and to feed armies.

Today, their mobility makes them a popular takeaway food in the streets of New York. Each morning, tamaleros travel across the city by train, car, and bus, setting up in or near subway stations to catch the rush of morning commuters.

In Sunset Park, on the corner of Thirty-Sixth Street and Fourth Avenue, Abel, owner of Tamales Poblano, sets up his stand daily from 5 a.m. until past noon.

"I came to work on the street, and honestly, I found the roots I was looking for," says Abel, 54, who has been selling tamales for 18 years. After working for a long time in a restaurant, the stress and lack of freedom motivated him to seek a change, finding in street vending not only his livelihood but also a way to employ others.

Despite the cold winters and initial challenges, Abel enjoys his work. "At first, it's tough, but time and experience help you move forward. You sleep, rest, and work as you want," he states. Being his own boss and having the security of the community have allowed him to expand his business.

"I prefer to buy on the street because the flavor is more authentic, it tastes better," says Jovani, a loyal customer who buys from Tamales Poblano daily. "It's like a tradition."

A few meters from Tamales Poblano, Jacqueline, owner of Tamales Martínez, sets up her stand daily between 6 and 7 a.m. until noon. Despite having only two years in the tamale business, she has achieved financial stability and built a loyal customer base.

"I was out of work, and the street has been better for me," she says. Her family also operates in other locations within the neighborhood, on Forty-First Street and the corner of Forty-Fifth Street and Fifth Avenue.

Jacqueline highlights the sense of community and the freedom her job provides. "I used to work in a supermarket and was never given time off for anything."

Although economic and political uncertainty concerns her, she remains hopeful for the future. "Dreaming is allowed," she affirms.

On Forty-Fifth Street and Fourth Avenue, Ernesto sets up the Tamales Villa Frontera stand every morning from 6 to 11 a.m. In addition to this job, he also works as an electrician.

"You have to want to do it because many people start and get discouraged," he says.

His regular customer, George, owner of the Tlaxcala Estilo Barbershop, prefers to buy locally to support the community. "Many people buy from him, sometimes even my clients," says George.

Despite harsh weather, the vendors persist, offering their tamales to the morning commuters. Like other vendors, Ernesto faces uncertainty with political changes. "All governments do their thing, but they can't get rid of us so easily," he says. "The community respects us."