Latino holiday traditions fill Sunset Park’s shops and homes

As Christmas rapidly approaches, the diverse community of Sunset Park is getting ready for the holidays in a variety of ways, with celebrations that reflect the neighborhood’s rich cultural heritage.

From the Hispanic perspective, this time of year has always been a call to come closer to loved ones, to support the businesses of friends and acquaintances, and to give gifts to the youngest and oldest members of the household. Cooking as a family, mantecados (rich, crumbly cookies) for dessert, and sobremesas (after-dinner conversations) with coffee, hot chocolate or liquor are some of my own iconic memories. As a Spaniard, I remember my neighbors building the nativity scene together, the smell of pine and fir in the homes from the decorated trees, and the warmth of home in every sense, even in the stores and hair salons.

Christmas is a key time for family and friends to gather, and it is just as important for local businesses. But the current political climate and fear of ICE roaming the streets has led many people in different lines of work to question how to navigate what is usually the most active season for spending at a time when many shop owners say sales are down and residents complain of rising prices.

While each Latino-owned business prepares for the holidays in their own way, they all share Christmas celebrations rooted in the Hispanic traditions that unite us.

Lisset is 41 years old and Venezuelan. She arrived in New York 10 years ago and, although she spends most of her time in Queens, where she lives, she says she makes sure to pass through Sunset Park during Christmas to buy dulce de lechosa, a classic Venezuelan Christmas papaya dessert, and local marquesas, a chilled layered cookie-and-cream cake that reminds her of home at this time of year.

“For me, Christmas is about family, and even though in New York you are working all the time, you still make room to celebrate,” Lisset says. “We Venezuelans love a good celebration, especially for the little ones.” But, as an immigrant, she says she keeps one foot on the ground so as not to forget the reality of how volatile the situation is for minorities, and, especially at this time of year, to hold on more to human values than to material things.

Among the occupations that experience the holidays most directly is hospitality. Located on Fifth Avenue, Sabor de Colombia, a restaurant and bakery, is known for its family atmosphere and its focus on well-prepared menus. Sandra Valencia is the owner of the restaurant, and she tells us how they live through Christmas among meals, reservations and the bustle to ensure everything is ready. “The most important thing is that the team wants our clients to feel like they are with family,” says Valencia.

As for the restaurant’s menu, the owner emphasizes offering what diners are looking for: Colombian dishes, music, Christmas decorations and, at the end of the year, traditional desserts such as natillas (a thick custard) and buñuelos (cheese fritters). “We work on these dishes so that people feel at home,” Valencia says.

Sonia Castillo, in charge of Mexican clothing and gift shop Novedades Sonih-Mex, explains how her business and family honor the holidays. “Now we’ve already taken out everything related to Christmas and start celebrating on Dec. 16, doing novenas that go until the 24th,” she says, describing the way the holidays are experienced in Mexican culture. “The most important thing is the posada, going house to house with prayers for el Niño Jesús, and afterwards the arrullo del Niño Jesús.” The arrullo is the tradition of rocking and singing the figure of a baby Jesus to sleep.

Castillo says that, although they usually live the holidays intensely, this year the mood of uncertainty and fear she blames on the Trump administration has cast a shadow over the preparations.

“All areas and all businesses are affected,” José, a Dominican New Yorker and an integral part of the family at the barbershop Corte Perfecto, agrees. But he stresses that, “welcoming the customer with a good attitude is essential.” At the barbershop they say they are a family and celebrate Christmas each year at one of the members’ homes. Despite the challenges, José tells us he’s proud of the barbershop’s craftsmanship and optimistic about the coming year.

Barbershops are among the most vibrant gathering places in any neighborhood, where long conversations stretch on as customers, barbers and neighborhood regulars prepare for Christmas, in terms of both appearance and attitude. At Faded Brooklyn they get ready for Christmas with positivity above all. Coquito, the creamy Puerto Rican holiday drink, and alcapurrias, savory deep-fried fritters stuffed with meat, are shared among the barbershop’s workers each year. With a staff as diverse as it is skilled — Puerto Ricans, Dominicans and Nicaraguans — they make sure clients feel they are in good hands.

Many establishments take the opportunity to give back to the community in a variety of ways. “This year we have a toy donation for the kids,” says Daiya, in charge of the women’s section of Flawless Beauty Bar. Despite the current political and economic situation, the number of clients at the barbershop has stayed steady, according to Daiya. Co-worker Sami adds, “The business stays with the community.”