After Christmas, local bakeries brace for Día de Reyes

The new year is already beginning, and with it come all those fresh resolutions that feel like their own responsibility. In Hispanic homes, though, responsibility can mean something more specific: who is buying the rosca for Día de Reyes, and, with a bit of luck, who is bringing the best gifts.

The tradition of the Rosca de Reyes has ancient roots. During Saturnalia in Ancient Rome, people baked sweet breads with a hidden object that crowned a “king” for a day. The custom was later adopted by Christianity, evolved in Europe (France and Spain), and arrived in Mexico during the colonial era, taking on the symbolism it carries today.

The rosca’s oval or round shape is often described as a crown, representing God’s love and the Magi’s journey. The candied fruits symbolize the jewels on their crowns, and the hidden baby figure represents the infant Jesus, concealed from Herod.

Both the roscas themselves and the traditions around them vary from country to country.

In Mexican tradition, whoever finds the baby must “care for” it until Día de la Candelaria (Feb. 2) in Mexico. In Spain, the person who finds the coin or hard piece is “king” for a day, and may also be the one who pays for the roscón.

The official version of the Roscón de Reyes is a traditional sweet bread, decorated with slices of dried or candied fruit and scented with orange blossom water.

Jan. 6, or Día de Reyes, is celebrated in Spain and across Latin America, as well as in other Spanish-speaking places such as the Philippines, Cuba, and the Dominican Republic.

In Sunset Park, Hispanic bakeries and pastry shops also differ in how they make their roscas and other holiday desserts. At Don Paco López Panadería on Fourth Avenue (4703 4th Ave.), staff say they have 34 years of experience, and Paco, the manager, says they expect sales to dip this year because of fear in households and tighter budgets. According to him, they are supported by many communities, not only the Mexican one.

“We open the doors to everyone. We get calls from many parts of New York, New Jersey, and upstate for Día de Reyes,” he said.

Their Rosca de Reyes is made with 100% Mexican products. But acitrón, a candied ingredient traditionally made from biznaga cactus, is now prohibited in Mexico and has become difficult to obtain, he said, especially with the new administration.

“Our clientele is very broad. Everyone is welcome, and that’s what has made the business last so long,” he added.

Día de Reyes, short for El Día de los Reyes Magos, falls on Jan. 6. The night before, children write a letter to one of the kings with what they hope to receive (similar to the Santa Claus tradition), and leave water and food by the window for the camels.

“On the morning of Jan. 6, you can already see the line, with people waiting very, very early,” said Juan, who handles purchasing and products at Panadería Mi México Pequeño on Fifth Avenue (4513 5th Ave.).

In Sunset Park, the streets smell like fresh pan dulce on Día de Reyes. Different bakeries celebrate the day in different ways, but each brings its own personality to the rosca. “As the second generation, I’ve been responsible for evolving the business,” said Alfredo, the oldest son of Silvia Torres and now the head of La Flor de Izúcar Café on Fifth Avenue (4021 5th Ave.). He says using only natural ingredients in the roscón, along with a strong online presence, has made their Rosca de Reyes one of the best known in New York.

Even as the economic situation pushes prices higher, he tries to stay close to the customer. “If the customer can’t get to us, we get to them.”

With that philosophy, Sunset Park bakeries leave their mark as they wait for the Kings to arrive.